The Roots of Hair Health
What Your Hair is Telling You
We tend to regard hair only as a reflection of our personal style, but as a living, growing part of our body, it's also tied in closely to our physiology. "Hair reflects internal changes -- things like sickness, nutrition, and stress," says dermatologist Paradi Mirmirani, M.D., a faculty member of the American Academy of Dermatology and staff dermatologist with Kaiser Permanente. There are three parts to your hair: the hair shaft (the fiber), the hair bulb (the root) and the hair cycle (the period of rest and regeneration). Most problems are related to one of these three things, Mirmirani says.
Issue: Hair that is dry and has lost its luster
It's Telling You: Your hair needs a vacation from styling.
Oh, the things we do to our hair in the name of beauty, like daily blow-drying and using the flat iron. "Hair becomes dry when the cuticle starts to break down and the inner fiber is exposed," Mirmirani says. Excessive heat can cause this -- especially heat applied to wet hair. She recommends air-drying your hair partially before blow drying, only using the flat iron on dry hair, and using a daily conditioner. Remember that hair fiber with color is more prone to damage, so be extra cautious if you color-treat your hair.
Issue: Excessive hair shedding
It's Telling You: Your hair cycle's rhythm is off.
Each individual strand of hair is in its own cycle. It grows for 6 - 8 years, rests for a few months, and then sheds. "About 10 percent of your hair is shedding at any one given time," Mirmirani says. Many things can interrupt your cycle and cause more hairs to shed earlier, she says, such as bodily stress or trauma, fever, weight loss (even 10 - 15 pounds), eating disorders, low protein vegetarian diets, or low iron levels. If you're noticing more shedding than usual, examine your lifestyle to see what might have changed or consult your dermatologist for tests.
Issue: Brittle or easily breaking hair
It's Telling You: Your hairstyle might be damaging the hair bulb.
Some hairstyles can actually affect the health of your hair's bulb, Mirmirani says. She sees this a lot with hair extensions or ponytails pulled too tight, day after day. "Think of it this way, if you keep pulling on the bulb of a plant, eventually, you can damage it," she says. Take it easy when you're pulling your hair back, and don't brush your hair vigorously when wet. Use a wide-tooth comb and comb through gently. As for Marsha Brady's 100 strokes a day for shine? Not so much, Mirmirani says. The less brushing, the better.
Issue: Split ends
It's Telling You: Your hair needs a trim.
Split ends, or "dead ends" are the result of damaged or weathered hair. "The hair splays apart because the outer layer (or cuticle) of the hair shaft has been worn away," Mirmirani says. But the good news is, you can snip them right off, and immediately your hair will look healthier. However, frequent trimming will not make your hair grow any faster: its cycle determines its rate of growth. Another trick is to keep your ends well-conditioned. Remember there is a difference between the function of cleansing and conditioning: Shampoo is for your scalp, and conditioner is for the actual hair fibers.
Issue: Grey hair
It's Telling You: The mechanism that transfers pigment to your hair is becoming less efficient with age.
The unavoidable truth is that grey hair is genetic, and aside from coloring your hair, you're stuck with it. Most people only have a handful of hair cycles (remember, a cycle is 6 - 8 years) where the pigment-producing cells that surround the follicle and transfer pigment are working at their best. The process just gets . . . tired. Mirmirani doesn't know about the old wives' tales that tell you if you yank a grey hair, five more will sprout up. However, once a fiber is grey -- even if you pluck it -- it will more than likely grow back in grey again.
Issue: Dandruff
It's Telling You: Your scalp might be reacting more strongly to fungal elements.
We know that dandruff can be hereditary, but it's a bit of mystery what causes the flaky stuff. Daily shampooing is your first line of defense, but if the itchiness and flakes persist, try an anti-dandruff product. Mirmirani causes that you use these products sparingly, however, because they are very harsh to your hair fiber. Try alternating the anti-dandruff product with regular shampoo until the dandruff clears up, and then switch back to your regular shampoo.
Issue: An unexpected bald patch of hair
It's Telling You: You may have Alopecia Areata.
Alopecia Areata happens when your immune system starts attacking the hair bulbs, Mirmirani says. It doesn't destroy it, but the bulb won't start to grow again until the attack is called off. According to the National Alopecia Areata Foundation, it affects five million people in the U.S. "It could be stress, it could be environmental factors: we really don't know," Mirmirani says. It can happen one time or recur with some frequency. The hair can grow back though -- it's not permanent damage. If you find a sudden bald spot, see your dermatologist.
Issue: Thicker hair than you've ever had before.
It's Telling You: Either you're just super lucky, or you're about to have a baby.
Sure, the hormones of pregnancy can make you lose your lunch, but they are also the cause behind the thick, lustrous hair you'll probably notice if you're expecting. When you're pregnant (and for a few months postpartum), your hair stays in a high state of hair growth, with only minimal hair loss. Enjoy it while it lasts!
